Elara Whitfield
When Tessa Thompson stepped onto the red carpet at the BFI London Film FestivalLondon, United Kingdom on October 13, 2025, all eyes were on the Erdem mini dress she wore. The look, styled by veteran stylist Karla Welch, sparked a debate that felt more like a gallery opening than a film screening. While some praised its sculptural minimalism, others — notably a fashion critic from the Tom and Lorenzo blog — argued the shoes and fabric choices fell short of couture perfection.
Context: The Festival and the Film
The 69th edition of the BFI London Film Festival, organized by the British Film Institute (BFI), ran from October 9 to October 20 across venues such as BFI Southbank and the historic Cinéma in Leicester Square. The festival’s programme for that week highlighted a slate of international dramas, with the British‑American co‑production Hedda — starring Thompson as the titular character — slated for a mid‑festival screening on Sunday.
Prior to the screening, Thompson made a stop at an Academy party on October 11, hosted by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences at The Dorchester in Mayfair. The soirée, a traditional networking hub for Oscar‑season hopefuls, gave her a chance to mingle with fellow cast and crew before the high‑profile BFI screening.
Design Deep Dive: Erdem’s Sculptural Mini Dress
The dress in question hails from the Erdem Spring 2026 collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week in September 2025. Designed by Canadian‑Turkish designer Erdem Moralıoğlu, the piece (catalogue number ERM26‑087) features a twisted, ruched fabric that mimics marble folds — a nod to Greco‑modern statuary. The effect is a blend of art‑installation minimalism and couture draping.
- Material: lightweight silk‑crepe with a purposely crinkled finish.
- Silhouette: high‑waisted mini with sculpted pleats that cascade to the floor.
- Color: muted ivory, allowing the fabric’s texture to take center stage.
- Accessories: minimalist gold earrings, but notably "rather uninspired" shoes according to the Tom and Lorenzo review.
Critics were split. One reviewer wrote, “The dress evokes a sculptural minimalism that feels like an art installation meets couture draping,” while also noting the fabric could be read as “bedsheet couture” due to uneven gathering. The shoes — described as plain, low‑heeled pumps — were singled out as the only element that prevented “loving the look” in full.
Styling Choices: From Welch to the Red Carpet
Karla Welch, who has collaborated with Thompson since 2018 through her Los Angeles‑based agency, opted to keep the focus on the dress’s dramatic upper half. "I wanted the drape and the twisted pleats to dominate," Welch reportedly told a backstage interviewer. The decision to pair the sculptural dress with simple accessories was intentional, aiming to avoid visual clutter.
However, not everyone agreed with the shoe selection. The Tom and Lorenzo post, published on October 14, highlighted the mismatch: “Those rather uninspired shoes and the randomness of the drape falling to the floor ultimately prevent me from loving the look.” Still, the author admitted, “She absolutely has me from the thighs up,” underscoring the dress’s strong impact despite the footwear misstep.
Reactions from the Industry and Fans
Social media lit up with mixed emojis. Fashion insiders on Instagram praised the dress’s daring architecture, with one influencer noting, “Thompson looks like a living marble statue — pure art.” Meanwhile, other users echoed the shoe criticism, suggesting a return to Erdem’s signature pointed heels.
Film critics, meanwhile, focused less on the dress and more on Thompson’s performance in Hedda. In a review for The Guardian, the critic wrote, “Thompson’s nuanced portrayal anchors the film, and her fashion choice adds a layer of visual storytelling that complements the narrative’s themes of confinement and freedom.”
What This Means for Fashion at Film Festivals
The episode illustrates the growing intersection of cinematic events and high fashion. As festivals become global media moments, designers increasingly view red‑carpet appearances as runway extensions. Erdem’s gamble with a sculptural mini could signal a shift toward more avant‑garde, art‑inspired pieces at film events, moving away from classic glamour.
For Thompson, the look reinforces her reputation as a style risk‑taker willing to embrace experimental clothing. As one fashion analyst from Business of Fashion commented, “When an actor of her caliber backs a daring design, it pushes the envelope for what’s acceptable on the red carpet.”
Looking Ahead: Upcoming Appearances and the Future of the Festival
While no further public appearances have been announced for Thompson at the 2025 BFI festival, the organization indicated plans to expand its industry programming next year, potentially adding more “Screen Talk” panels that blend film discussion with fashion showcases.
The British Film Institute reported 195,000 attendees in 2024, and while 2025 figures remain unpublished, the growing media coverage of red‑carpet fashion suggests the festival’s cultural reach is only widening.
Frequently Asked Questions
How did critics react to Tessa Thompson’s Erdem dress?
Opinions were split — some praised the sculptural, marble‑like folds as a bold art‑couture statement, while others faulted the plain shoes and uneven fabric drape, calling parts of the look “bedsheet couture.”
Who styled the dress and what was the rationale?
Stylist Karla Welch aimed to spotlight the dress’s dramatic upper half, opting for minimal accessories and simple shoes to keep the focus on the twisted pleats.
What is the significance of the dress within Erdem’s Spring 2026 collection?
The mini, catalogue number ERM26‑087, embodies the collection’s theme of sculptural minimalism, blending Greco‑modern forms with couture draping — a departure from Erdem’s traditionally floral aesthetic.
Did the outfit affect audience perception of the film ‘Hedda’?
While the dress dominated media chatter, film reviewers focused on Thompson’s performance. Some noted the fashion choice added a visual layer that mirrored the film’s themes of restraint versus liberation.
What future fashion trends might arise from this red‑carpet moment?
Experts anticipate more avant‑garde, art‑inspired pieces at festivals, as designers see red‑carpet exposure as an extension of runway storytelling, especially when high‑profile actors like Thompson embrace bold silhouettes.
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